After trying (and failing) to get into lunch at Septime, I was advised to head over to Le Clown Bar (coincidentally just a couple of blocks from Au Passage) to try what Eater magazine described as “the most thrilling restaurant in Paris” for their spin on “Bistronomie” described as food with “innovative accessibility: simple, creative fare in lean settings”
The kitchen is headed up by Tokyo born Chef Sota Atsumi, and whilst there are nods to Japanese ingredients in his cooking, the menu certainly reads like a classic French bistro albeit with a few twists; think Beignet de Sardine (11Eu) Foie Gras, Navet, Abricot & Concombre (19Eu) and Filet de Bouef, Rhubarbe & Pommes de Terres Nouvelle de Ile de Re (39Eu)
I started with the “Salade de Courgette Trompette & Ricotta Fumee” (10Eu) with a glass of “Al Di la Del Fiume” orange wine from Emilia Romana (8.50Eu) before moving onto another small plate, the “Galette avec Poitrine de Cochon, Poutargue & Coriandre” (13Eu) which I enjoyed with a glass of VDF Regis Pichon, a blend of Claudette and Terre Blanche (7.50Eu)
The courgette was the perfect summer starter; I would guess that the courgette had been lightly blanched before being tossed in the smoked ricotta and topped with shavings of cheese and edible flowers.
The Galette was another success, topped with a slab of perfectly cooked pork belly with bottarga and a fragrant fresh herb salad. I loved how the herbs cut the fattiness of the pork belly (so beautifully cooked) and the bottarga added a mice level of salty, funky umami to the dish
The restaurant was perfect for whiling away a summers afternoon, with the large windows opening up onto the street and a good, relaxed lunchtime crowd who seemed to be settled in for the long run. Whilst I am not sure I would call Le Clown Bar the MOST thrilling restaurant in Paris, it is certainly worth visiting.
Le Clown Bar
114 Rue Amelot, 75011 Paris, France