I visited 999 Shan Noodles several times on my first trip to Yangon back in 2014 and the food I ate there really stood out as the local highlight of my trip so I was very much looking forward to a repeat visit.
I had woken early in order to get in some more City exploring before the day became too hot & I would be forced inside in search of aircon, and had worked up quite an appetite by the time I arrived back at the small noodle shop just a street away from my guesthouse on Mahabandoola Gardens St.
I was extremely tempted just to order one of the delicious dishes I had tried on my first trip to Yangon, from the Shan Noodles (shown here “dry” with soup on the side) to the wonderful soft Burmese tofu (notable for the fact it is in fact made with chickpeas instead of soy) topped noodles but eventually decided it would be a better idea to try something different.
I settled on the Mee Shay noodles as they looked to be the most suitable noodles on offer for breakfast, as well as a cheeky portion of the fried tofu (I managed a couple of pieces before I decided to show some restraint but when the prices are as low as they are, it doesn’t hurt to try an extra dish or two!)
There are apparently several variations on Mee Shay, mine consisted of round rice noodles in broth with pork, a little chilli infused oil, a good sprinkling of black pepper and spring onion to finish and was absolutely delicious. I added a good spoonful of dried chilli paste to the soup for an extra kick and interspersed mouthfuls of the noodles and rich broth with the Mohnyin Tijin, a typical Burmese pickle made with carrots, mustard greens and other vegetables that have been pickled in rice wine, which helped to break up some of the spice and richness from the broth.
Eating as early as I did, I was the only tourist in the small restaurant and the staff carried on their daily preparations of peeling vegetables and de stemming leafy greens as they spoke to (who I assume were) regular guests all in search of a hearty breakfast like I was.
The noodles, fried tofu and free flow tea (on the tables for you to help yourself) came to around $1.20 – absolutely outstanding value for something as carefully prepared and delicious as this. 999 Shan noodles seems to be recommended by all the guide books and travel sites, trust me this is with good reason. Don’t be worried that all the recommendations are spoiling it and try to hunt out somewhere more off the beaten path, it really is definitely worth visiting if you are in Yangon and it ranks up there as one of my absolute favourite breakfasts in a long time.
999 Shan Noodles (Open daily 6:30am-10pm)
No. 130 B 34th Street (Just behind City Hall)